Staying at a Ryokan: What to Expect

family staying at a ryokan in yufuin

Last Updated on March 27, 2025 by Kay

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Wondering what to expect when staying at a ryokan?

Ryokan are traditional inns in Japan. They’re wonderful places to relax for a night and be served by dedicated staff who are the epitome of omotenashi (Japanese hospitality).

I’ve stayed at ryokan numerous times throughout my 15+ years of living in Japan, so I thought I would share what the experience is like for those who are curious. I’ve also traveled extensively throughout the world and I’ve found that staying at a ryokan is unlike anything else — if you’re traveling to Japan, you need to spend a night at a ryokan.

Arriving at the Ryokan

When you arrive, you’ll be greeted by staff who will take your bags. Sometimes the staff will greet you right outside the ryokan. (I always find it amazing how they’re waiting patiently outdoors for guests regardless of the weather.)

entrance of a ryokan

You will typically need to take off your shoes at the entrance of the ryokan, although some ryokan might have you take off your shoes in your room.

Checking-in at the Ryokan

When checking in at a ryokan, you’ll fill out some paperwork at the front desk (name, address, etc).

The staff will explain about the ryokan’s facilities as well as the onsen’s operating hours either here at the front desk or in your room. You’ll then be asked about what time you want dinner and breakfast.

Some ryokan like Ubuya and Hamanoyu will provide you with a welcome drink and snack, which you can enjoy in the lobby while you wait to check in.

Ryokan Rooms

The staff will take you and your bags to your room. If you weren’t already told about the ryokan’s facilities at the front desk, it’ll be done here. Some ryokan will also give you a drink and snack in your room rather than in the lobby.

Here’s what a typical room at a ryokan looks like:

A look inside a ryokan room

In the room, you’ll find the following:

A Japanese green tea set and snacks. (This is sometimes located inside a round lacquer container.)

green tea and snacks at a ryokan

A closet with bedding in it (the staff will lay out the bedding for you).

Closet with bedding at a ryokan

A closet with yukata and haoori. 

Closet at ryokan with yukata and haoori

For more information on how to wear yukata and haoori, read this article.

A table for enjoying snacks and meals. This table will be moved to the side to make room for bedding in the evening as shown below:

futon bedding in a ryokan

A service charge sheet if the ryokan has beverages other than water in the fridge. If you take one of these items, you need to write the number of items you took and you’ll be charged for it upon checkout.

sheet showing pricing for beverages

So if you find these in your ryokan room’s fridge, know that they’re not free! (If you’re unsure, ask the staff.)

Beer bottles in ryokan fridge

Taking a Dip in an Onsen

My family likes to enjoy the onsen before dinner because after we’re usually too full and tired. However, this completely depends on the person! We also like to enjoy an alcoholic beverage or two with our meal but it’s not a good idea to go into an onsen when you’re tipsy, so we refrain from soaking.

private onsen near mount fuji japan

I have lots of tips on onsen etiquette in this article so make sure to give it a read before you go.

Enjoying Dinner

Depending on the ryokan, dinner will be either in a restaurant or brought to your room.

Dinner at a ryokan

We personally like staying at ryokan where dinner is brought to our room.

After dinner, the staff will put out the bedding.

Relaxing Before Bed

My family likes to watch television after dinner and simply relax in the room. Of course, the television shows are in Japanese so this might not be an option for those who don’t understand the language.

You can also visit the souvenir shop if it’s still open or go to the bar if the ryokan has one. Those who feel up to it can have another soak in the onsen.

If it’s summer, some ryokan like this one in Arima Onsen will take you to see fireflies! It was such a magical experience that I would recommend it to anyone.

Going to Sleep

People don’t typically stay up late in ryokan, especially since breakfast is quite early.

If you stay at a ryokan with an open-air bath that has a view, you might want to wake up even earlier to catch the sunrise. Regardless of the view, the early morning is also the best time to enjoy an onsen, in my experience. There are fewer people, it’s quiet, and depending on how early it is, you can still see the stars in the sky. The temperature is also just right.

Waking Up

As mentioned earlier, you might want to get up early and enjoy the onsen.

Especially because some ryokan switch the onsen in the morning, meaning the men’s onsen from the prior night is now the women’s onsen. This way you can enjoy a new onsen experience!

Breakfast

If breakfast is brought to your room, you’ll need to wake up early because the staff have to put the bedding away and return the table to its previous position.

Breakfast at a ryokan

For those having breakfast in a restaurant rather than their room, you can either wear a yukata or your regular clothes for the day.

Depending on what time check-out is, you can enjoy the onsen one more time before you have to check out. I suggest keeping your yukata on for breakfast if you want to go to the onsen again.

Checking Out

At check-out, which is at the front desk, you’ll settle any additional charges (for instance, if you ordered a beverage at dinner).

You’ll need to carry your luggage yourself from your room to the front desk.

Wrap-Up: The Ryokan Experience

I hope this look at what it’s like staying a night at a ryokan was helpful to you.

If you’d like some tips on what to know before staying at a ryokan, read this article.

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JOIN THE MAILING LIST

As a small token of my appreciation, I'll also send you a FREE Japanese and English printable to help your little one learn all about words associated with spring in Japan 🌸

This field is required.